By KELLI DANIELS
The evening began with a pretty perfect bike ride up and
down Lamar Avenue and then west to Metcalf Avenue.
Not surprisingly, we found ourselves winding our ride
down near Downtown Overland Park surrounded by the usual watering holes.
Luckily for us, we couldn’t decide on where to stop to
grab a bite and a brew as our spokes spun past a quaint Central American store
front at 7926 Santa Fe Drive that is home to El Salvadoreño.
“How about here?” My friend asked as her bike was
seemingly being drawn in by the authentic music spilling out of this urban,
ethnic find.
After reading their accolades on Yelp and Urbanspoon, we
learned we were not the only passersby who have been slaves to this Latino
spell.
Quite honestly we didn’t expect much, especially after
we were approached by the astute Anglo server named John who greeted us and
looked like he had just left the set of The Truman Show. Little did we know, we
were in for a very pleasant surprise.
As it turns out, John is the brother-in-law of the chef
and owner Blanca Alvarenga and very knowledgeable of Salvadoreño fare.
He walked us through the menu and encouraged us to order
the Sampler Platter which, as he explained, has a small version of everything
on the first page of the menu.
I rubbed my hands together, scooted my chair in, looked
at my friend and said, “Let’s do this.”
The appetizer, which served as a perfect tapas tasting
for two, included five dishes that are apparent staples in El Salvadorian
cuisine:
• El Pastele — a perfectly fried dough which
contained carrot, potato, chilés and braised beef with a light sauce that was
undoubtedly the result of this combination being slowly melted together with
the patience, discipline and passion that only a native could convey.
• Next to that was a Papusa — a griddled soft corn
shell filled with cheese and the pedals of the flower Foroco. We looked at each
other nodding constantly as we savored each bite. The hand made papusa paired
with the sweet and slightly floral notes of the loroco were pure incentive to
book a trip to the small, coastal Latin American country.
• The Enchilada — not at all what you would find
from its neighbors to the north. This was more like a tostada of sorts. A fry
bread that was topped with roasted chicken that was stewed in their house-made
salsa, shaved radish, pickled beets and hard-boiled egg. It was our favorite on
the plate and boasted so many flavors and textures, I found myself eating more
of it just to figure it out.
• “Tamale Extraordinaire” — riddled with braised
pork and its rendering sauce this was, by far, the best tamale I have had in
this town, hands down. The masa wrapping is much thicker than the Mexican
version of this Latino staple and finer ground than Honduran tamales I have had
and the pork melted in my mouth like a well crafted piece of chocolate.
• Lastly, the Yucca Frita — topped with a spicy
cabbage slaw called “Curtido” and, of course, chicharones. The yucca, although
a very starchy vegetable was perfectly crispy and the sweetness of it was
brazenly balanced with the sharp acidity in the slaw.
We were offered dessert but were somewhat over
stimulated and still had a few miles to go on our journey home but we will
definitely be back with more friends, empty stomachs and a greater curiosity
for the rest of the menu. I encourage you to do the same.
El Salvadoreño can be found on the Internet via its Facebook page.
Bon Appetit.
Chef Kelli Daniels is owner and operator of Good You Mobile Vending and
Catering, as well as the chief dishwasher, a restaurant consultant, sister,
daughter, a lover and a fighter, metro cyclist, socialite, epicurean and
drinker of strong coffee .
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